=========================
slippy:~ bruce$ ftp ftp.ure.org.uk
Connected to ftp.ure.org.uk.
220 ProFTPD 1.2.10 Server (ProFTPD) [212.227.62.91]
Name (ftp.ure.org.uk:bruce): ureorguk2
331 Password required for ureorguk2.
Password:
230 User ureorguk2 logged in.
Remote system type is UNIX.
Using binary mode to transfer files.
ftp> ls -al
229 Entering Extended Passive Mode (|||32794|)
[about a 2 minute gap here]
200 EPRT command successful
421 Service not available, remote server timed out. Connection closed
=========================

I'll shut up now but if anyone has any helpful brainwaves I'll buy them a stupidly large pint, or equivalent, next time we meet.

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